{"id":181,"date":"2021-05-07T04:14:23","date_gmt":"2021-05-07T04:14:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/coolermetro.com\/cool\/?page_id=181"},"modified":"2021-10-14T18:12:27","modified_gmt":"2021-10-14T18:12:27","slug":"faqs","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/coolermetro.com\/cool\/resources\/faqs\/","title":{"rendered":"FAQ’s"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"Frequently Asked Questions About Evaporative Coolers<\/strong><\/h2>\n

How does an evaporative cooler work?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Evaporative coolers circulate water across pads or other media.\u00a0 Air is blown across the pads, evaporating the water.\u00a0 This evaporation is a cooling process, cooling the air as it enters your house.\u00a0 Properly designed, a cooler will lightly pressurize the house with cool fresh air.\u00a0 The cooling will go to the areas where you ventilate, such as open windows, doors, up-dux or other vents.\u00a0 Ventilation and proper sizing are critical to the proper operation of your cooler.<\/p>\n

\u00a0How much will a cooler cool my house?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Different coolers have different cooling capacities and efficiencies.\u00a0 There is a mathematical equation based on the outside air temperature, dew point and pad design that will give an exact answer.\u00a0 With the Breezair cooler installed, you should be able to maintain a comfort level of about 74 degrees under the worst of summer conditions, and be able to make it cold enough to need a jacket under ideal conditions.\u00a0 As the humidity outside increases, the cooling efficiency is reduced.\u00a0 Evaporative coolers are usually used where the relative humidity is less than 50 percent.\u00a0 The drier the outside air is, the cooler the discharge air will be.<\/p>\n

How do you hook the cooler up to the water?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 When we install a cooler, we prefer to run all of the water lines on the outside of your house to prevent any damage that may occur if the water line has a leak.\u00a0 We usually use a piggy-back style hose bib that will attach to your existing hose bib.\u00a0 This piggy-back bib will allow the cooler to maintain proper water levels as well as allow you to still use the hose.\u00a0\u00a0Important note: Some sillcocks or hose bibs will drip water from the packing nut at the handle stem after the water is turned on.\u00a0 Usually, the packing nut can be tightened to eliminate this type of drip.\u00a0 If tightening the valve packing\u00a0doesn’t cure the drip, a new hose bib may need to be installed.\u00a0 This is not a cooler or warranty problem, it is a problem with worn or deteriorated valve packing inside your hose bib.\u00a0 Most of the time, the problem is not apparent when the water is turned off.\u00a0<\/em>\u00a0In some cases, the water may be connected to a sprinkler system manifold.\u00a0 Water can also come from connections to the interior plumbing of the house.\u00a0 We do not recommend any cooler water line be run inside of any building.\u00a0 We have a disclaimer that removes any liability from us in the event of any leak from a waterline installed inside of any structure.\u00a0\u00a0If your waterline is hooked up under a sink, we will not service your cooler.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

How much water do they use?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Coolers evaporate water to provide cooling.\u00a0 The water usage is dependent upon cooler size, operating speed, cooler design, comfort level desired and outside conditions.\u00a0 Most coolers typically use 40 to 60 gallons of water each day during the season.\u00a0 Water managers, auto drains and clean machines can increase this usage somewhat.<\/p>\n

\u00a0How many windows do I need open?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 In most cases, if you open every window and door wide open your cooler will just work better.\u00a0 You can balance the cooling by adjusting your windows. Areas that you want cooler, open the windows more.\u00a0 Areas where you need less cooling, open the windows less.\u00a0 High indoor humidity is usually because of inadequate ventilation.\u00a0 The more you ventilate, the better your cooler will work and the indoor humidity will be lower.\u00a0 You need at least 1 square foot of screened ventilation opening for every 500 Cfm of airflow your cooler will deliver.\u00a0 A 5000 Cfm cooler will need at least 10 square feet of screened window openings, usually spread around the home to balance the cooling.<\/p>\n

\u00a0Are there any problems with humidity?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Humidity is increased due to the evaporation of the water into the air stream as the cooler is working.\u00a0 Proper ventilation is necessary to keep humidity levels within acceptable ranges.\u00a0 In cases where the ventilation is inadequate, humidity levels can approach 100%, possibly causing humidity related problems.\u00a0 See the question about window opening above.\u00a0 See the question about humidity controllers below in the humidifier section.<\/p>\n

\u00a0How long does it take to install a cooler?\u00a0\u00a0<\/strong>Most installations are completed in 1 to 2 days.\u00a0 When we need to coordinate with another contractor (like your roofer, for example), the jobs usually take longer.<\/em><\/p>\n

Are permits required?\u00a0\u00a0<\/strong>Most replacements and new installations will require a permit.\u00a0 We permit everything!\u00a0\u00a0<\/strong>When your job is completed our office will coordinate all necessary inspections with you.\u00a0 It is your responsibility to meet with the inspector(s) and provide access.<\/em><\/p>\n

Do<\/strong>\u00a0swamp coolers leak when it\u2019s raining?<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0 Properly installed coolers will not leak rain or snow.<\/p>\n

I plan to replace my roof.\u00a0 Should I get it done first or the cooler done first?<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0 It depends.\u00a0 If you plan to use tile, metal or plastic roofing you should probably consult the roofer to make sure anyone should ever be on your roof or not.\u00a0 We will probably need to work together to get the jobs done.\u00a0 We usually like to get standard shingle style roofs done before we install a new cooler.\u00a0 The are many reasons.\u00a0 If the roof needs decking replaced, the cooler and roof flashing may need to be removed to replace decking.\u00a0 The same applies to multi layer shingles.\u00a0 We permit everything.\u00a0 Our step and counter flashings are custom cut and bent in our sheet metal shop, not bent over your sidewalk or something.\u00a0 The water and drain lines are in the way of the roofers and are often broken off during the roofing process.\u00a0 We spend a lot of time running the lines neat and straight.\u00a0 The drains on the cooler are often broken off.\u00a0 The legs on every cooler we sell are adjustable but they are often bent or broken off instead of properly fastening and leveling the cooler.\u00a0 We warranty our roof work against leaking but the roofers usually exclude all leaks from the cooler.\u00a0 We respect your roof.\u00a0 We will take all of the usual precautions to protect it whether it is new or 40 years old.\u00a0 I don’t want to sound too negative.\u00a0 Many of the cooler installations we have seen are done so poorly that the roofers never had a chance.\u00a0 The installation process we follow will allow roof replacement without needing to remove the cooler unless there are decking replacement issues, etc.<\/p>\n

What are some of the guidelines for installations and change outs of roof mount coolers?\u00a0\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>Most jurisdictions require a building permit to install or change a roof mount cooler.\u00a0 There can be as many as three permits involved…a roofing permit, a mechanical permit and an electrical permit are common.\u00a0 The following are the most common things we see done incorrectly on existing coolers.\u00a0 Many of these existing coolers were originally installed before there was much concern about codes or permits.\u00a0 There is little or no “grandfathering” allowed, the building inspectors will require you to bring things up to current code.\u00a0 These codes are for your safety and protection, for the most part.<\/p>\n

\u00b7\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0Evaporative coolers need to be installed at least 10 feet from fireplace, furnace and hot water flues or chimneys to minimize the possibility of the cooler circulating products of combustion, like carbon monoxide, throughout the house.\u00a0 The same 10 foot rule applies to drain\/waste vents.\u00a0 When the 10 foot rule cannot be maintained, the vents, etc. must be extended 3 feet above the top of the cooler.\u00a0\u00a0 You must also have carbon monoxide detectors as required by code.\u00a0 CO detectors are your responsibility.\u00a0 You may not pass an inspection without them.<\/p>\n

\u00b7\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0Evaporative coolers need to be properly attached to the roof and duct system.\u00a0 Legs, when required, cannot be fastened to the ridge or valleys where sheet metal troughs may be damaged by nails, etc.\u00a0 The duct penetration must be properly sealed to the roof.\u00a0 Tar is not an approved method and will not pass an inspection (tar and gravel roofs are a qualified exception).<\/p>\n

\u00b7\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0There needs to be 12 inches clearance between the bottom of the cooler and the closest point to the roof (at the top).<\/p>\n

\u00b7\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0If there is a skirt or curb, it must be usually be removed.\u00a0 Most curbs are improperly sized and improperly sealed for most residential applications.\u00a0 Drain access is usually a problem also.\u00a0 Skirts are allowed only when they are not flashed or otherwise attached to the roof.\u00a0 If they are attached only to the legs, they may not be a problem.\u00a0 If they are flashed or tarred to the roof, roofing repairs will probably be needed to pass inspection.<\/p>\n

\u00b7\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0Step roofs may require roof safety kits as a minimum, and may require a 30″ wide catwalk with a guard rail in some jurisdictions.<\/p>\n

\u00b7\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0Ductwork must be properly sealed and insulated.<\/p>\n

\u00b7\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0The cooler must be on a dedicated circuit, meaning having it’s own circuit breaker labeled in the electric panel with nothing else on that circuit.\u00a0 The wires from the cooler, breaker and thermostat must be of the proper size and type.\u00a0 Everything must be grounded.\u00a0 Wires run inside of the duct are not allowed.\u00a0 Some electric panels may need to be updated to meet current code.<\/p>\n

\u00b7\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0There needs to be an acceptable location to hook up the water.\u00a0 Leaking hose bibs are not a cooler or warranty problem.<\/p>\n

\u00b7\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0Tree limbs may need to be removed to allow adequate clearance for the cooler to operate properly and for access to install or service the cooler.<\/p>\n

\u00a0When is the best\u00a0 time to start up or shut down my cooler?\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/strong><\/em>We live in an area that can be unpredictable as far as weather is concerned.\u00a0 Usually, coolers are safe to be started up in early May, the 5th to the 12th, and should be shut down before freeze danger, usually by the end of September.\u00a0 You should be familiar with the shut-down instructions so you can help protect everything in the event we have an unexpected freeze while your cooler is still hooked up.<\/span>\u00a0 Freezing is not a warranty problem.\u00a0\u00a0Important;\u00a0 During the peak of start-up or shut-down season, service is strictly limited to our previous installation customers, on a first come\/first serve basis. These services need to be scheduled a minimum of 6 weeks in advance.<\/p>\n

How do I schedule a start-up or shut-down on my cooler?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Cooler start-ups and shut-downs can be scheduled by calling our office during normal business hours.\u00a0 We recommend your service be scheduled early, before the season starts.\u00a0 If you schedule your service early, you will have more flexibility with times and dates.\u00a0 During the start-up and shut down seasons, people who wait until the last minute will find they may have to wait up to a month or more.\u00a0 These wait times are widespread throughout this industry.\u00a0 Important:\u00a0 During the peak start-up season, service is strictly limited to our previous installation customers, on a first come\/first serve basis.<\/p>\n

\u00a0Do I need to cover my cooler in the winter?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Standard metal coolers should be covered in the winter to help prevent heat loss through the duct and cooler.\u00a0 Our Breezair coolers use six overlapping sheet metal\u00a0 plates to close off the air that would be lost through the cooler.\u00a0 AeroCool coolers use a winterization panel that replaces the cover.\u00a0 Covers are available for most coolers.\u00a0 They also help keep leaves and pine needles out of your cooler.<\/p>\n

\u00a0What do I need to know about servicing my cooler?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Evaporative coolers require routine service including, but not limited to, spring start-up and fall shut-down.\u00a0 Since evaporative coolers have water in them, they should be shut down and winterized each fall to prevent freeze damage to the cooler, water line and house plumbing.\u00a0 During the shut down service, the cooler should have the drain removed and the waterline disconnected at each end and blown out to remove any remaining water in the line.\u00a0 The cooler should be rinsed and flushed to remove any leaves, cottonwood lint, etc. as well as minerals which may have accumulated due to the evaporation of water.\u00a0 The block off plates or cover should be installed and the indoor diffuser or vent(s) should be closed to prevent heat loss from the house.\u00a0 The blower drive belt should be removed to prevent it from becoming egg shaped during the long winter off cycle.\u00a0 If these things are done in time each year, the cooler will be prepared for next spring\u2019s start-up.\u00a0 The spring start-up will require the drain to be reinstalled, the water line reconnected and checked for leaks, the belt to be reinstalled and adjusted properly, the block off plates to be removed and the indoor diffuser or vent to be opened.\u00a0 These services are required for the proper operation of your cooler and the homeowner can usually accomplishes them.\u00a0 We offer the start-up service and shut-down service on a per visit basis.<\/p>\n

What is the difference between line voltage control and low voltage control?\u00a0\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>Line voltage is the voltage that is present on most of the plugs in your house…110-120 volts.\u00a0 All coolers require a line voltage connection, usually a single 20 amp circuit.\u00a0 Most coolers are available as 2 speed coolers supporting line voltage control.\u00a0 A six position switch is the standard control method, some line voltage thermostats are available to provide more automatic control.\u00a0 (off, hi cool, low cool, hi vent, lo vent and pump only are the six positions).\u00a0 As stated above, all coolers require a circuit to the cooler as a minimum.\u00a0 With line voltage control, six wires should then be run through the attic, down inside a wall, have a box cut into the wall, have the wires terminated in that box to your switch or thermostat.\u00a0 By comparison, low voltage control still requires the same 20 amp circuit to the cooler.\u00a0 Then a control box allows low voltage thermostat wiring to be run to a good place for the thermostat.\u00a0 Electricians must perform the line voltage connections at your expense, we run our low voltage thermostat wire and mount the thermostat with low voltage control as part of our installation.\u00a0 Most of the low voltage packages are superior in their performance to line voltage packages because they support prewet cycles, automatic speed selection and tighter temperature control.\u00a0 In some cases, line voltage makes sense but most of the time the low voltage control is superior and costs less to install after additional electrical costs are included.\u00a0 You must also have carbon monoxide detectors as required by code.\u00a0 CO detectors are your responsibility.\u00a0 You will not pass an inspection without them.<\/p>\n

What is the difference between\u00a0 the 2 speed and the variable speed BreezAir?\u00a0<\/strong><\/em> The BreezAir Elite series cooler is available as a line voltage or low voltage 2 speed cooler as described above.\u00a0 Your cooler will operate on either high or low speed.\u00a0 The BreezAir Elite series is also available with a low voltage control package that has either a wireless remote or wall mounted thermostat.\u00a0 The Variable Speed Controller will automatically turn your cooler on, matching the motor speed to the conditions, so your cooler keeps you in the comfort zone you set on your thermostat.\u00a0 As your house warms up the cooler will speed up.\u00a0 As your home cools off it will slow down.\u00a0 While you sleep, the cooler will slow to a very soft, quiet level, keeping you comfortable with cool fresh air.\u00a0 If cooling is not needed, the cooler will switch to ventilation mode, bringing in a bit of fresh air.\u00a0 If it gets too cold, the cooler will switch off, waiting to do it all over again.\u00a0 The variable speed operation is a BreezAir exclusive and is another reason they are the best cooler in the world.\u00a0 The\u00a0 EXV series as well as the Icon series and TBA commercial coolers support variable speed control as well as factory installed Water Manager and AutoDrain systems.<\/p>\n

Where I live, roof mounted equipment is not allowed due to covenant restrictions.\u00a0 What can I do?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 We have coolers in various configurations, other than roof mount.\u00a0 We have side discharge coolers than can be installed through the side of the house, as well as window mount and portable coolers.\u00a0 We have performed some exotic installations to appease some associations’ rules.\u00a0 Such installations can provide cooling that is comparable to roof mount coolers.<\/p>\n

What is a water manager, auto drain or clean machine?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 As water is evaporated from your cooler, the minerals in the water are not evaporated.\u00a0 When the mineral content reaches the point of crystallization, deposits will build up on your cooler, reducing efficiency.\u00a0 The water manager or clean machine will replace the mineral laden water before the deposits develop, keeping your cooler clean and operating properly.\u00a0 An auto drain is a Breezair option that is designed to allow the cooler to remain drained and dry during long off cycles.\u00a0 Having the cooler drained regularly will keep your cooler cleaner, operating better, lasting longer and smelling better.\u00a0\u00a0The auto drain is not freeze protection.<\/p>\n

Furnaces and Heating<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Do these newer furnaces have pilot lights?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Most of the furnaces built today do not have a pilot light that stays lit all the time.\u00a0 Spark ignitions and hot surface ignitions have eliminated the standing pilot in an effort to meet federal efficiency standards.\u00a0 The newer systems operate well when they are properly maintained.<\/p>\n

\u00a0 Should I get a bigger furnace than I have now?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Probably not, if your old furnace properly heated your home.\u00a0 Most of the older furnaces installed in homes in the metro area are already oversized.\u00a0 If the existing furnace is older than 15 years, the newer furnaces with their higher efficiency standards can typically be downsized to take advantage of this efficiency advantage.\u00a0 A properly sized furnace will last longer than one that is oversized.<\/p>\n

\u00a0I have air conditioning or I plan on adding air conditioning…Do I need a special furnace for A\/C?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Most of the furnaces manufactured today are air conditioning ready, meaning they have a multi-speed blower motor and built in relays and terminal strips to accommodate A\/C.<\/p>\n

\u00a0What is a Two Stage Furnace?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Most manufacturers build single stage furnaces, several also build two stage furnaces.\u00a0 A single stage furnace typically has a single speed blower and inducer motor and operates at a single fixed Btu. rate.\u00a0 This furnace needs to be designed to properly heat the home under the worst conditions, like a week of sub zero highs.\u00a0 Fortunately, most of the heating season is quite milder than that, with lows in the 30’s or warmer. \u00a0Under these conditions, the single stage furnace is considerably oversized causing a loss in efficiency as well as comfort level.\u00a0 A two stage furnace is designed with a 2 speed inducer motor, low speed and high speed heating blower motors and a low fire\/high fire gas control valve.\u00a0 Low fire is typically 60% of high fire.\u00a0 For example:\u00a0 If your home requires a 100,000 Btu. of gas to properly heat your home under those worst of conditions, your 2 stage furnace would have 100,000 Btu. when you really need it.\u00a0 When your thermostat tells your furnace to turn on, the first stage of a 2 stage furnace starts.\u00a0 The inducer runs at a reduced speed.\u00a0 The low fire circuit of the gas control allows 60,000 Btu. to begin heating the house and when the heating blower motor comes on it will run at a quieter, more energy efficient speed.\u00a0 Obviously, using 60,000 Btu. is less than using 100,000 Btu., therefore run times of the furnace will be longer.\u00a0 These longer run times help the furnace to maintain higher efficiencies and provide added benefits, such as longer periods for your humidifier or air cleaner system to work their magic.\u00a0 With these longer run cycles, air stratification or heat stacking is reduced because of better mixing of the air in your home.\u00a0 The low fire run time can be controlled either by a multi-stage thermostat or by a built-in timer.\u00a0 Typically, the furnace will run at low fire (60,000 Btu.) for up to 15 minutes, then switch to the high fire mode, with high speed heating blower and 100,000 Btu. of heat.\u00a0 Under most conditions, low fire mode will satisfy the thermostat and shut off the furnace before the high fire ever comes on.\u00a0 There is where the savings really add up.<\/p>\n

What is a Variable Speed Blower?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Why would I want one?\u00a0 The variable speed blower is designed to properly adjust the airflow supplied your duct system during each mode of operation.\u00a0 Standard furnace blowers are operated at low speed for the heating modes, with the highest speed for air conditioning and\/or continuous fan operation.\u00a0 Variable speed blowers have more than just a low, medium and high speed.\u00a0 The variable speed blower will adjust itself to overcome restrictions within the airstream, such as an air conditioning coil.\u00a0 They are ideal when used in zoned systems where there are ever changing variables of zones opening and closing.\u00a0 They are quiet.\u00a0 Another advantage of the variable speed is the reduced electrical cost of operation, particularly when used in a continuous fan mode.\u00a0 The blower speed in the continuous fan mode can be adjusted to allow very quiet, economical operation and in this mode your air cleaner and humidifier are able to perform better.\u00a0 You end up with less heat stacking, better humidity control, cleaner air and quiet, economical operation.<\/p>\n

\u00a0What is the big difference between 80% efficiency and 90+ efficiency furnaces?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Most manufacturers build furnaces in two general configurations, 80% (non-condensing) and 90+% (condensing) efficiency.\u00a0 The 80% efficiency standard is the minimum federal standard for residential heating equipment.\u00a0 Flue gasses contain many compounds such as carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, sulfuric and nitric acids.\u00a0 What the flue gas has the most of, though, is water in the form of steam.\u00a0 The 80% efficiency furnace is designed to prevent condensation when it is properly installed.\u00a0 Most furnace systems are common vented with the home’s water heater.\u00a0 Most water heaters are non-condensing under normal conditions.\u00a0 When common venting is required or when the existing metal venting is to be reused, the 80% configuration is most commonly used.\u00a0 Condensing furnaces (90%+ efficiency) extract almost all of the heat from the exhaust.\u00a0 As more heat is removed from the flue gasses, the products of combustion are cooled to the point that condensation occurs.\u00a0 The condensate is caustic to untreated metal, ceramic, brick, mortar and concrete.\u00a0 The venting systems need to be specially constructed to deal with the caustic nature of the condensate, usually of, believe it or not, PVC plastic pipe.\u00a0 Most homes can be readily modified to take advantage of the 90%+ efficiency models, but not in all cases.\u00a0 Sometimes, the 90+ is the best and least expensive option, but sometimes the 80% configuration is the least expensive choice for retrofit situations.\u00a0 Rebates and tax credits can really influence the choice you may make.<\/p>\n

\u00a0Since these newer furnaces don’t have pilot lights, they must be almost maintenance free, right?\u00a0<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0Unfortunately, the newer furnaces require more than just changing the filter every now and then.\u00a0 These newer furnaces have more circuitry and moving parts than the old ones.\u00a0 This complication increases with the advances in efficiency of the newer furnaces.\u00a0 Most of the manufacturers as well as most of the gas suppliers recommend furnace heating equipment be cleaned, serviced and adjusted on an annual basis.\u00a0 If this service is neglected, you can plan on a service call.\u00a0 Annual cleaning, service and adjustment will help ensure safe, clean, reliable and efficient operation.<\/p>\n

\u00a0I change my filter at the beginning of every winter.\u00a0 Is that often enough?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0 Maybe, if you have one of the high performance filters.\u00a0 Some high performance filters are designed to need yearly service, some are designed to be serviced at the beginning of each heating and cooling season.\u00a0 If you are using the less expensive poly fiber filters or an electrostatic filter, you should service the filter every month.<\/p>\n

\u00a0What should I know about my furnace?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Obviously, you should know where it is, like in the basement, crawl space, attic, closet, etc.\u00a0 You should know how to turn on the light and make sure the bulb works.\u00a0 You should know how to turn off the electricity to the furnace, both at the furnace room and also at the circuit breaker in your electric panel.\u00a0 You should know where to turn off the gas to your furnace as well as any other appliances in your home.\u00a0 You should know where your electric panel and gas meter are located.\u00a0 You should know where the filter is located.\u00a0 You should know the make, model, serial number, warranty status and approximate age of your furnace.\u00a0 You need to be aware of the service requirements of your furnace, air conditioner, air cleaner and humidifier.\u00a0 You need to know how to operate your thermostat and change the batteries as needed.\u00a0 You should have the telephone number to your gas and electric supplier.<\/p>\n

Humidifier and other Accessories FAQ’s<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00a0What are the system requirements for humidifiers?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Humidifiers require a water source nearby.\u00a0 There must be a drain near by or in the absence of a suitable drain, a condensate pump needs to be installed.\u00a0 There must be an electrical outlet nearby for powered models.\u00a0 There needs to be adequate room on the ductwork for the humidifier to mount, or modifications may need to be made to your ductwork.\u00a0 If you are using air conditioning, a relay may need to be added to your furnace for proper humidifier use.<\/p>\n

Can you install humidifiers in attics or crawl spaces?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 Yes, as long as water lines and drains are freeze protected and the other system requirements are met.\u00a0 Freeze protection may be easy to accomplish or may not be so easy, depending on the circumstances.<\/p>\n

How do I care for my humidifier?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 The humidifier needs to be cleaned on an annual basis in most cases.\u00a0 The pad or evaporation media needs to be removed and flushed with hot water to remove mineral deposits left behind by the evaporated water.\u00a0 Presoaking in a water and vinegar solution will help to loosen deposits.\u00a0 If the pads are beginning to deteriorate, they should be replaced.\u00a0 Honeywell recommends media replacement on a yearly basis for the best anti-microbial treatment.\u00a0 Pads are readily available through our service department.<\/p>\n

Why does my humidity controller have different settings based on outside temperature?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 As it gets colder outside, the windows in the home have more opportunity to develop fogging or frosting.\u00a0 Resetting the humidity set point inside your house will reduce or eliminate this fogging.\u00a0 The suggestions on the humidity control are just that, suggestions.\u00a0 With some trial and error, a permanent setting can usually be found that allows comfort as well as no frosting.\u00a0 In most cases, if the home has more modern windows, this frosting isn’t a problem.\u00a0 Setting the humidity level too high may cause condensate to build inside attics, inside the roof and inside attic mounted duct.\u00a0 As outside temperatures fall, the humidity levels need to be reset to prevent condensation.\u00a0 Some of the humidifiers we install have an outdoor air sensor that automatically reset the levels.<\/p>\n

\u00a0How often do I need to clean the filters in my electronic air cleaner?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 The pre-filters and filter cells should be washed in the sink, or better yet, run through the dishwasher every 3 months…more often if you have high dust from remodeling or shedding pets, etc.<\/p>\n

\u00a0How often do I need to change the filter in my Honeywell high performance media filter?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 You should replace the filter media once a year or when the “Air Watch” indicator lights.<\/p>\n

\u00a0How long do the Ultraviolet bulbs last in my germ killing lamps?<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 The newer bulb designs are a considerable improvement over the old ones, which lasted about a year.\u00a0 The newer ones last as long as 5 years or more.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Frequently Asked Questions About Evaporative Coolers How does an evaporative cooler work?\u00a0 Evaporative coolers circulate water across pads or other media.\u00a0 Air is blown across the pads, evaporating the water.\u00a0 This evaporation is a cooling process, cooling the air as it enters your house.\u00a0 Properly designed, a cooler will lightly pressurize the house with cool … <\/p>\n

Continue reading “FAQ’s”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":104,"menu_order":1,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-181","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/coolermetro.com\/cool\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/181","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/coolermetro.com\/cool\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/coolermetro.com\/cool\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/coolermetro.com\/cool\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/coolermetro.com\/cool\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=181"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/coolermetro.com\/cool\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/181\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":277,"href":"https:\/\/coolermetro.com\/cool\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/181\/revisions\/277"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/coolermetro.com\/cool\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/104"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/coolermetro.com\/cool\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=181"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}